Showing posts with label exhibitions. Show all posts
Showing posts with label exhibitions. Show all posts

Thursday, 21 October 2010

Research RCA: New Knowledge



''What is Fashion?'' this is the question I pose as part of my installation for Research RCA: New Knowledge - the first ever dedicated exhibition of the work of MPhil and PhD students held by the RCA.

In many ways this question ''What is Fashion?'' is less a statement than a provocation in re-assessing how we look at and consider what fashion is. While there is much commentary about fashion, both in the Fashion Press or Media and amongst those in academia who take up fashion as a serious subject of intellectual investigation, few have actually dared to ask the question out loud ''What is Fashion?''

In a well-known essay Valerie Steele, Director of the Museum at FIT in New York, has even gone as far as to state that for many Fashion is the ''F-word'' - something abusive, yet in turn itself also abused. This curatorial project seeks to address this stance, looking at the different ways in which we seek to define and process the meaning of what fashion is.

In the ''What is Fashion?'' section of my website I post up pictures of my installation together with a PDF copy of the accompanying brochure, with the aim of provoking a continuing and lively discussion. To join in the debate E-mail your thoughts, comments, ideas or images to: whatisfashion(at)nadabea.com

Details for the exhibition:

Research RCA: New Knowledge

22nd - 27th October 2010


Opening Times: 11.00 - 18.00 daily

Private View: 21st October 18.00-20.30

Venue: Gulbenkian Galleries, Royal College of Art, Kensington Gore, London. SW7 2EU.

Transport: Buses: 9, 10, 52 and 452 Tube: South Kensington and High Street Kensington

Wednesday, 9 June 2010

Fashion Clash Maastricht 2010

Just back from the beautiful city of Maastricht, located in the very south of the Netherlands in the Limburg region. As in my last post I do not really see myself as a 'maker' in the traditional sense, so visiting to take part in the Fashion Clash Expo was certainly an experimental venture. I exhibited my first short film Serendipity, featuring the work of Caroline Collinge, who also exhibited a costume installation, in what was for both of us a kind of combined work.

Due to a misunderstanding on the part of the exhibition organisers, who were under the impression Caroline's installation was 6x6 metres,rather than the skirt circumference being 6 metres in total, we were given a much-too-large space to exhibit in, albeit with a great sky-light and prime position next to the Café/Bar area of the exhibition venue. Fortunately, however, we had arrived early enough on the day before the exhibition started, so we were able to move another more intimate space, almost like shop unit, within another part of the venue. Viewing again the pictures below, this suited the work much much better, yet there remained enough room in the space for visitors to walk around our work from differing angles. We were lucky in the that the Timmerfabriek, an old factory building, where Fashion Clash was located, had such a range of different room sizes and atmospherics to play with.


Installation view at Fashion Clash Maastricht


Installation of my film Serendipity, featuring the work of Caroline Collinge


Costume Installation by Caroline Collinge


Close up of Costume Installation by Caroline Collinge


Boschstraat on the way to Fashion Clash at the Timmerfabriek


Fashion Clash Exhibition Banner


Entrance to Fashion Clash at the Timmerfabriek

As perhaps with all events and exhibitions, you are perhaps never quite sure who it will appeal too, despite all the best laid plans and huge amount of advertising. Yet both Caroline and I were surprised by the diversity of the and range of the visitors, who included not only fashion 'professionals' such as designers, trend forecasters, students, photographers, journalists, but also those just curious to see what was happening and to enjoy the (overall) high-standard and intriguing work on display.


Timmerfabriek, the Fashion Clash exhibition venue in the Boschstraatkwartier

Many exhibits at Fashion Clash were located in their own, self-contained space, which for any exhibitor or curator is quite a luxury. Yet the main room of the venue includes perhaps many of the elements of a 'standard' exhibition space, including a large skylight and windows along the wall, allowing plenty of natural light in which exhibit and view the intriguing exhibits in this room. The photo below also indicates the diverse range of possibilities for displaying fashion exhibits, from high tables, to perspex boxes, mannequins to garments being suspended on ropes.


Main exhibition room at Fashion Clash


Café/Bar area at Fashion Clash, scene of the opening night and closing parties


View of the Hoeg Brögk and Sint Servaasbrug across the Maas River

Outside of the main exhibition venue, the organisers of Fashion Clash had set up an Etalageroute, where photographs and fashion artefacts were displayed in shop windows of boutiques and dis-used shops throughout the city. One of the main elements of this was experimental garments made up in calico by students from the fashion department of Maastricht's AKBM, one of the most striking of which included the inclusion of a pink dinosaur in the window of the De Bijenkorf department store. This was an intriguing element in the organisation of Fashion Clash as it demonstrated how event of this kind can be embraced and incorporated into the local community, utilising the whole city as an exhibition space.


Window display, De Bijenkorf department store, part of the Etalageroute exhibition


Photography by Valentine Vos, part of the Etalgeroute exhibition

For both Caroline and myself one of the most intriguing aspects of this exhibition was what kind of work our fellow exhibitors would be showing. While my own work is much more in the realm of fashion than Caroline's, one of the main aims of this exhibition was to showcase the work of unusual practictioners in the field, or whose work makes use of a 'fashion' element in some form. Hence the word 'clash' in the title. While in some instances the sense of clash in some exhibits was not so clear, in others it was more pronounced. Some the work that most intrigued us had to do with the both the materials used, such as Ulrik Martin Larsen's knitting together of plastic tags to create almost jewel-like pieces, and also in the theatrics of their display, such as Sophie Duran's jewellery, exhibited in jars normally associated with taxidermy, entirely appropriate for their crustation or insect-like form. Susanne Klemm's ceramic necklace and cameo rings were also a highlight of the exhibition.


Knitwear by Ulrik Martin Larsen


Jewellery and film by Sophie Duran


Necklace by Susanne Klemm

In participating in Fashion Clash it was an interesting opportunity to discover more about how fashion can be exhibited in an way that retains its aura of vitality and exuberance. This was particularly the case with the Etalageroute, where visitors were encouraged to explore the whole city of Maastricht, and its own status as a 'Fashion City'. The inclusion of 'performing fashion' through fashion shows and the location of a shop selling clothing and jewellery by the exhibitors inside the exhibition space also added to this experience. The main down-side for us as exhibitors was the mis-spelling of Caroline's name on the exhibition's flyers and in the accompanying magazine, proving that it's not always possible to control everything in relation to your own exhibit. Another curious side of Fashion Clash was the magazine commissioned by the organisers, and made in part to comemmorate its staging. Much of the content of this publication had little to do with the actual content of the exhibition and its accompanying events overall. It was also poorly designed, which was rather surprising given the excellent international reputation of Dutch typography and graphic design generally. Overall, however, both Caroline and I were impressed with the organisation of this exhibition experience, and it will be intriguing to track its future development as it establishes itself as one of the Netherlands leading annual fashion expos. In answer to the question of whether Maastricht is a 'Fashion City' in its own right, it's probably better to say that it is certainly a place of fashion consumption, judging by the number of high-end boutiques to be found in the city. Judging a city on its ability to produce, as much as consume, fashion will, no doubt, be something I shall return to during the course of my research.

Even more photos, including those of the catwalk presentations, taken by top fashion photographer Peter Stigter can be viewed on the Fashion Clash website: www.fashionclash.nl

More of Caroline's work can be viewed at: www.cabinetofcuriosity.org

Monday, 31 May 2010

Return to Blythe House - The Concise Dictionary of Dress





Last week some of the F&T research group made the return journey back to Blythe House, this time to view the exhibition The Concise Dictionary of Dress, curated by Judith Clark and Adam Phillips in collaboration with Artangel. For anyone who has not yet seen this intriguing exhibit, I am almost rather loathe to reveal too many details, for fear of spoiling what is probably the 'must-see' fashion exhibition of the year.

To give an overall impression, rather being located in a glossy, purpose-built set, as many of Clark's past exhibitions have been, the exhibits were instead located within the working archives of the V&A Museum, located at Blythe House. Visitors are not allowed to wander at will through the vast rooms and winding corridors, which to some may come as a relief, such is the labyrinthine quality of the building. As a fellow visitor remarked, you certainly have the sense that something awful could happen to you, for instance, if you were accidentally locked in for the night. Instead, we were guided through the exhibits on a structured tour of the building, being with a journey in a large goods lift up to the fourth floor of the building. Beginning on the roof, we were led through a variety of rooms, travelling up and down winding staircases, eventually finding ourselves outside in the courtyard where the old coal-bunkers were located.

What struck me most about this exhibition, was less about the actual artefacts that we were directed to look at, than the play on the ambiance of the building itself. Atmospherics were very much an important part of the overall 'feeling' and experience of this exhibition for the visitor. Often, in exhibition design the 'comfortableness' of the exhibition experience is often forgotten, particularly if anyone who has had to endure the heaving crowds of a busy 'blockbuster' exhibition on an otherwise relaxed Sunday afternoon will appreciate. Yet in The Concise Dictionary of Dress the visitor was exposed to a contradiction in the experience of this exhibition. On the one hand we were offered the privilege of being allowed to explore a building normally closed to the general public, with the added 'luxury' of being attended to by a personal guide. Yet at the same time, in being (gently) forced to move around the building to view the next exhibit, there was little time to linger or savour the exhibits as you might in a 'normal' (and uncrowded) exhibition space.

Judith Clark and Adam Philips are to give a talk in a couple of weeks at LCF, where Clark is head of the MA course for Fashion Curation, so am intrigued to attend that to hear more about their motivation and intent for this exhibition.